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Get
out & grow!
A
special gardening section
Container
planting can enhance home
and landscape
by
Michelle Ensinger
Container planting can be a very versatile way to make
a strong statement in your yard. First, however, you need
to do some basic planning ahead of time.
First,
decide where you want your containers (easier to move before
dirt and plants are planted), consider the effect you want,
what plants will be used (sun or shade) and if you want
a vegetable garden in your containers (ideal for apartment
dwellers).
If
you want your plants to be moveable, ensure you are using
the proper container and rollers for your situation.
Obviously,
if you have an area where nothing will grow terraces,
decks and entryways, a container is the perfect solution.
Some
types of containers include: terra cotta allows air and
water to pass through walls. Drawback: prone to freezing
and cracking, pot dries out quickly after watering and salt
residues may build up on the pot.
Concrete
more durable than terra cotta, but a lot heavier and more
expensive.
Synthetic.
Plastic and fiberglass are durable, lightweight, colorful.
Drawback: can crack if left exposed over long term to the
sun’s ultra violet rays and can fade in time.
Wood.
Planters, window-planters, etc., keeps roots cooler in direct
sun. Drawback: will rot over time; therefore, those with
liners are usually a good way to go; can create ‘water/dirt’
spots on concrete if a tray is not used.
Custom.
Old metal/cast iron container, old shoes, etc., can also
be fun in the yard/garden.
Remember,
whatever you decide to plant in your container, extra care
may be required food, light, water and ensure your soil
is designed for containers, as soil in containers dries
out faster than in the ground (wind and sun will dry out
the container).
If
your container is in direct sun, try to avoid using dark
containers which absorb heat more readily and require more
watering. Drip systems are really a blessing when your work
schedule is busy or you are unable to rely on anyone else
to tend to your plants’ watering, feeding, etc.
Plants
and vegetables in containers need more frequent feeding
than plants in the ground as nutrients leach out and watering
is important to wash out any salts.
If
you decide to grow your vegetables in containers, there
are many varieties of dwarf vegetables, especially tomatoes
that do well in containers. You can combine with your tomatoes
radishes, onions, lettuce, parsley, sage, garlic; however,
I would plant peppers and cucumbers in a separate container.
In a hanging basket, you can purchase trailing tomatoes
(I’ve also used patio tomatoes), cucumbers, parsley, thyme,
chives with the tomatoes, and if you wish to plant root
veggies, ensure that they have plenty of room to grow.
When
the tap root hits bottom, the growth stops and the veggies
start to look gnarled. Watermelon can be grown in five gallon
containers, and potatoes go crazy if you use clean, old
tires two tires high and just keep the mounding habit
from the bottom tire up as you would ground planting. Whenever
planting check to see the mature size to ensure your container
will be large enough to encompass the plants growth. Transplanting
plants and especially vegetables in mid-season is very stressful
on the plant and best to be avoided. Remember when planting
herbs with other than vegetables, check on the soil’s pH
to see if the plants are compatible.
In
the corners of your container, as per planting instructions,
you can plant summer bulbs now and have their color mid-summer
to late as an added feature in your planters.
Decide
if you want all annuals, perennial/annual mix, slow growing
evergreens, deciduous, sun or shade loving or do you really
want to be adventurous and try some patio plants. Many of
these plants are not hearty to our area, but will survive
our summer and early fall. They will need to be brought
in the home/greenhouse and maintained at a warmer temperature
during the winter.
When
filling your containers, bring the soil level to within
an inch of the pot’s rim. The space between the pot’s rim
and the soil is dead air space, where without air circulation,
mealy bugs, spider mites and others will thrive.
Please
remember to water more frequently and if the water is running
out too fast, check to see if the root ball has dried out
and has shrunk away from the sides of the container. If
this happens (usually from not watering thoroughly) the
container needs to be set in a tub of water (to which I
add liquid seaweed or kelp as per instructions for transplanting)
and soak until the bubbles stop or if that is not possible,
cork/block the drainage holes and water the plant. Allow
to soak up to six hours, then take out the blockage and
allow the excess water to drain.
Heavy
watering leaches out soil nutrients, so I usually use liquid
fertilizers. However, if I am to have a busy season, I use
time released food, 1/2 as per instructions, as I have found
time released can burn the plants if not spread around the
container properly. Better to use less, as more does not
always mean better.
The
following are just a few plants that you may want to try
for containers: geraniums, wave petunias, alyssum, lobellia,
small to medium sized snapdragons, iberia, daylillies, bulbs
(border dahlias look wonderful), lavatera rosie, oriental
lilies, hosta (shade), boxwood (good topiary), Jersey pinnacle
holly (good topiary), some varieties of roses, nandina (heavenly
bamboo), honeysuckle (a trellis added to your container
to enhance an area), slow growing evergreens (your nursery
will know which varieties are slow growing as the tag will
also advise), ceanothus (check on variety for mature size).
Remember,
you are planting for you, so if you don’t want your plant
centered, then don’t, you are doing this for you. Beauty
is in the eye of the beholder.
Please
note: allow your now flowering bulbs (and your summer bulbs)
to die back on their own as the stocks and leaves feed the
bulbs for next year’s growth. If you don’t like the way
the area looks, plant some other plants to cover the die
back to these bulbs, but please allow the bulbs to have
their cycle.
I
have container planted for over 25 years and I am always
finding new ideas for my plants and vegetables, as I am
sure you will also enjoy.
Create
a backyard birdhouse
There are lots of ways to make
your yard a welcoming haven for local wildlife while bringing
you closer to nature at the same time.
For
starters, set up a bird feeder. The best foods include sunflower,
niger (also called thistle) proso millet, cracked corn and
suet.
Here
are some hints from the National Wildlife Federation’s (NWF)
Backyard Wildlife Habitat program which is celebrating its
30 year anniversary this year. Over the years NWF has educated
millions of people about the joys of gardening for wildlife.
• Provide multiple feeding stations in different areas of
your yard to disperse bird activity. Crowding at the feeder
can cause stress, which may make birds more vulnerable to
disease.
• Keep seed clean and dry and watch that it doesn’t get
moldy. Offer only fresh seed.
• Use a seed blend that is designed for the feeder you have
and the type of birds that come to that feeder. Blends that
contain filler seeds or grains are not typically eaten by
birds and end up on the ground making a mess.
• Provide seeds from a feeder rather than scattering them
on the ground.
• Supplement your bird feeders by planting a wide variety
of native plants.
Learn
more about creating a backyard wildlife habitat and how
to have it officially certified by the National Wildlife
Federation at www.
nwf.org/backyardwildlifehabitat, or by calling (585)
461-3092.
Rock
garden a unique approach
Are you thinking of having a rock
garden? If so, you will generally have the best results
if you go for an informal look, as opposed to a formal rock
garden.
Look
for a place where rocks just exist naturally, or where you
have brought in rocks from elsewhere. This area can have
lots of exposure to the wind and the sun.
Also,
it can be in a place where the soil is not as fertile as
would be needed if you were growing vegetables are usually
the best place for a rock garden. Most of all you will want
to make your rock garden look natural like it has been there
for years. Usually the plants in a rock garden should bloom
in the spring and summer months.
Placement
of the garden is critical. Examine the potential site and
also the soil. A spot with natural rocks already there would
be great, but if not, collect rocks from the woods, nearby
roads, or beaches.
Get
a good collection or rocks or perhaps you can even purchase
the rocks you might need locally. In any case, you’ll need
to insert the rocks carefully in the soil.
Try
to make a slope to the rock garden so that you will have
better sloped drainage. You’ll want the rain or snow to
be able to drain easily and not stand in the rock garden,
this is very important.
Keep
the rock garden area open to the sky and out of the shadows
of overpowering trees or even buildings. Remember if the
slope is facing south there will be lots of heat in the
summer and too much winter sun also.
An eastern slope is cooler than a western slope and the
afternoon sun is at an angle that is better for the heat
at noon than a western one.
Now construct this rock garden. Don’t bring in lots of colored
rock as these are usually soft rocks and will fall apart
easily. Tufa and coral rock are not native to this area,
but these are well liked by plants because of their porous
quality.
Very
hard rocks will disintegrate slowly, but hold their outlines
well. Try to turn the broken parts of the rock to the rear
of the rock garden so that the overall effect will be their
prettiest side.
Next you will lay the stones. Make all the vertical crevices
between stones V-shaped or wider at the top, and make the
smallest part of the crevice in a V-shape. When you put
in a large rock, lay it upon another large rock, then lay
a few flat chips or pieces of brick on the lowest stone
then add soil before adding more stones. This will give
you a soil strip which will give your plants room for their
roots.
Don’t
leave overhanging ledges as your plants will look smaller
than they are when growing.
Use
a soil mix of one third sand, one third garden soil and
one third humus. Sometimes, you can add more sand for those
plants that require the most perfect drainage or more humus
for those plants that like acidity and root moisture.
Watering
is usually not a problem. Don’t water with the hose or any
strong force, just use very little water at a time, but
do it thoroughly. It takes a little time, but your plants
will thrive.
Pruning
shrubs
Deciduous: Shrubs that bloom
in early spring; cut out weak or dead shoots, also trim
branches that have borne flowers. Prune immediately after
flowering.
Shrubs that bloom in late spring; cut out dead or weak growth
as well as any old hardwood branches that remain. Prune
before new growth starts, usually in January until March.
Evergreen:
Cut out overcrowded branches and any dead growth in early
May.
Flowering
hedges: Control growth after flowering occurs.
Remember that there are many exceptions, so when in doubt,
ask!
Butterfly
or moth? Two basic identifications. Butterflies
have clubbed antennae and when at rest, the wings are held
together over the back. Moths have filamentous or feathered
antennae and when at rest, wings are folded roof-like over
the back.
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